FINNMARK 2020 DAY Eight.

What a full-hearted welcome by the brothers here. We saw the East going “Polatrlys” calling-in at 16:45 and turn round in the “fjord”. Have slept well upstairs and the weather 13 gr. With a sparkling sun. We, son and father, have walked this site out to have a look at Kim Andrea’s “Maya”. The Sea is so clear. Walk to the other end of the “village” to the church. Then the “upper road” home for some lunch. It is a bit late (and blowing) for going fishing, and Oddmund with Kim Andrea’s scheduled job at sea is to check King Krab tejns.

Planned activities are trips inland (Åke’s hut and Meeham Harbour/Sletnæs lighthouse). Relaxe and admire Kjøllefjords combination of all nature’s finest aspects.

Last night, I learnt, that poor fishermen in old time could row from here in open Sea all the way some 200 km down to Lofoten. Tough times. In this house, Åke Ivar’s, birthplace, was housed parents with six children.

Half a Century ago children used the harbour platforms to play all day (swim, jump etc.). The Church bells would chime at 20 hrs., and children should go home for the day. The Lensman (police) would patrol with his dog to control appliance. All this has gone.

Today many elders are housed in hospital, elders home and in elders houses.

2020 FINNMARK. Day seventh (Monday morning)

Palmok is an OK place. Rather primitive in Contact, but being very far out, what else can be expected? Many things are communicated only by signals. As an example, the only instruction in the double hut is a sign: No Smoking.

We are early risers after good sleeps. No noise overnight has been disturbing us. It is really the one end of the long Highway 6 from Portugal.

Another reason for sleeping well can be, that rush is over. A few hours’ drive, and we will be with Åke-Ivar and brother Oddmund in the very charming small fishing village of Kjøllefjord., a long Fjord open to the West.

I have slept in Åke-Ivar’s home twice before, so left now is just to renew bonds. Laying in the warm bed early this morning, my thinking was drifting wide? Hospitality met with 60 years ago in Samoa (the tropics) as a young person and now here in

The rich Norway (the Artic) is like day and night in comparison! Have we inhabitants of our common Globe changed so much our are we subject to changes in our humanity?

Of course, if you grow-up in tribal societies, you become members thereof. If you grow up as nomads, which is or have been more or less the case her in Lapland, you may tend to be less SOCIAL, less Communicating?

Program of the day is:

Leave at 10-11 o’clock for a stop in Tana to look at shops etc. Then the say two hrs. drive up to Kjøllefjord. We are now out of “the woods”, so the mountains will be bare, and reins, moose and predators might be seen?

Temp. was yesterday unusual high for September up here (17 gr,), so we have been praised. Only two minutes of light rain, so the empty E 6 Was as our own racetrack! All the time, we moved in long curves up and down, in and out, with breathtaking views to lakes, coasts, mountains tops etc. Add to this, that colors are so picture full and forceful.

During the last Pasvik stop at Svanvik, we walked their botanical garden, which reveals how rich, the very short artic summer can be. Vegetables are going to big dimensions.

Our hosts here, Astrid & Andreas, provided us with frozen “helleflynder”, and with fine, light yellow potatoes dug up in their garden. Delicious.

We went some 100 mtrs. By car to the Museum (closed) and to the river. Christian walked back to keep his fitness in order.

As in Australia and other places, I am a bit anxious as to re-union, after here 9 years. I guess needless.

FINNMARK 2020. Day SIX

FINNMARK 2020. Day SIX

Sun was up, and we packed our gear and took it to the car ahead of a delicious breakfast at 09:00. Having lived in such marvelous “Wild Life” designed surroundings out in the woods, haVSbeen medicine for the hectic travel up to now.

Christian got the idea to save a 100 Km by cutting through to Kirkenes across Finland. Only Corona complications worried us.

Never mind, we went to the Finland border and explained our only TRANSIT needs, and two competent patrol men let us pass. We then had three easy hours on the most nice road without traffic through to Kirkenes. It was so fantastic to cruise over the plains. The lonely official at the other end just waved us through!

We are now via a bad road down here at Vaggamatem 100 km down in the Pasvik Valley. It’s time for a “morfar”. Noatun rendezvous has to wait for tomorrow morning. No Sauna either, but may a dip in the river before going to bed?

Today’s program was the toughest. We have hardly relaxed enough from a tough start, and the mileage and unknown terrain was worrying us/me also.

Christian is in touch with Andreas at the next stop, near Tana. After that our Main Stop. Åke-Ivar’s cosy Kjøllefjord home. The long road from Honningsvrå back to Tromsæ, that we see as “a piece of cake”.

Rain has not hit us yet, and today up at the plains temperature was 18 gr. Water is seen everywhere as lakes and/or running fast downhill. Colours are a lot of red and yellow already, and sceneries in general breathtaking.

Very few birds or animals have been spotted so far.

Our rather optimistic program is only possible due all the electronic devices, which can be consulted and used to facilitate successful end results. Wonder how travel will develop in a further life span?

Have now slept and woke up to sunshine. Around 08:00 hrs, we will drive the 10 km down to NOATUN. Walk out to the borderpost and look over towards the BIG country, Russia. Going North then jsut turn-in at Svanvik to study how well all types of plants and vegatables can grow by plenty of long light in a short summer. More to that later from here 70 gr. North.

Off for another good day.

SVEND

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Day FOUR. Kautokeino

The overnight trip on HURTIGRUTEN’s “MIDNIGHT SUN” was so elegant. Having left Tromsø at 18:00, we enjoyed the slow sailing North. , Had a small salad dinner and went to bed early for wake-up at 05:00 to go ashore in Hammerfest, were the car was handed back to us at the Quaye!

We are now lodged in a fine and warm hut at Kautokeino having driven two beautiful stretches in full Lapland sun up along the ever changing Alta river with a short breakfast stop in Alta. Christian really found the Juhl Silversmith visit high up on the river’s southern bank breathtaking, like we have done before. Took a sundowner just outside Maris hut.. A fine, sunny day here very north.

Day Five. Going Karasjok.

Yesterday was a remarkable autumn day up here North. So long and pleasant. From our table in a comfortable hut room, we watched the “midnight sun” around 21:00 just skimming the valley top far over beyond the Alta river settling quietly.

Dinner was Reindeer beef. Very tasteful.

We are now already “seasoned travelers”. Maybe also relaxed, having survived the strange HURTIGRUTE night and the pertaining drive up/in here? Traveling is much more hard work, than I recalled, but charming. In few minutes I shall be the driver of the first stretch back say 50 km of the Highway 45 up to the right hand Karasjok road. Years ago, Hanne and I were the only passengers in a midnight bus driving the stretch over the tundra in pitch dark.

-Cont. Karashok. The passage at daytime across the “plains” to her was marvelous. Nature really reveals all about “who is in control”? Height of vegetation, colors, growth etc. are all determined by the richness of soil or lack of same, the slope of ground, the waterfalls and run-off etc.

What a wonderful drive. We made stops, whenever we felt! Found easily “Engholm Husky”. Checked in to a very “rough” settler’s hut, and having unpacked and after some food, we proceeded to have a glance at the Sami City KARACHOK, 6 km further on, whilst the wood stove went going. Not much to see. A cup of coffee and a small “morfar” up to excellent dinner at 19:00 hrs.

Christian has checked for programs at the next two stopovers on our way up to the real goal of this encounter. The STAY with Kjøllefjord families/friends. So far incredibly good. The weather is with us!

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TROMSØ Library

DAY one – 01 September 2020

A SAS flight or two small ones took us up here to TROMSØ, Finnmark, Norway, via Oslo.

Yesterday was horrible. Almost no sleep all night until Christian in a Taxi picked me up around 03:15.

Passed through an almost empty and sleeping Kastrup Airport (CORANA). Was told by someone, that our joint two pieces of luggage will be sent on to TromsØ. Well seated in the flight there, the crew asked me with my hand luggage to disembark and go back to the “Check-in”, as something was not correct with my luggage. I had lost Christian in the process.

The Check-in now was left unattended. We had only been say 20 passengers.

My flight took off, but suddenly Christian turned up. We were re-united. Thank god!

Two hours later, we landed well here WITH the suitcases!

Having chosen to let two TROMSØ BnB nights a start. feels Okay.

It is a Capital of the region as its own up here so far North.

Hours later, we had got a nice Suzuki car, dropped luggage at B&B, which would be cleaned ready for us at 17:00 hours.

Went shopping and found tasty “Rød¸fisk” for dinner prepared back again by Christian.

Went to bed quite early. Well used!

— cont. Took a small sightseeing trip to the North and due heavy traffic. Christian continued all the way round to the Airport and then in the tunnel back. Went to bed on a small glass of COGNAC. Tasted like Heaven.

Today was set aside for double Museum exercises. Uni. M. in the morning, and Polar M. after lunch. In between purchase of whale meat Roald Amundsen and his encounters. Quite a nice museum. We are now home for two “morfars” (one each).

19:15 hrs. Christian is doing all the work. The black whale meat is well under its way to land as de Luxe dinner.

Tiden, der fulgte!

REJSER i NORD med fly, bus, bil og med Hurtigruten.
Nord -Norge for femte gang (2004,-06. 09, 11 og nu september 2020).

Tromsø, Alta, Kautokeino, Karasjok, Honningsvrå, Kjøllefjord, Pasvik og Kirkenes.

Langt deroppe i Nord er alt så voldsomt. Søtunger 2m lange og 30 cm tykke, Kongekrabber 2 m. Havet er oftest flere 100 m dybt og derfra haler en ”juksemaskine” store torsk op. 6 stk. på linen, når den og dens blylod kommer op.

På markeder i Sao Paulo, Brasilien, ses i fastemåned meterlange BERGEN fiskekasser fulde af tykke, tørrede torsk til ”Kabliau”.

Den smukke Alta-skifer, kendt fra bankers facadebeklædninger, står skråt flere 100 km førend Ural, som engang bremsede Jordens skorpe op.

Midt på sommeren jages rensdyr af myggesværme op på bare klipper mod nord, hvor birkeskovene er ophørt at gro. Om vinteren er der mange måneder med ”mørketid”. Børn opdager det ikke, men voksne bliver deprimerede!

Highway 888, Europas nordligste hovedvej kræver kortegekørsel, når ikke slet og ret lukket med bomme pgra sne. Alle vores fem ture er i for- eller eftersommer.

Efterfølgende program er fra ”as time goes by!” eller også fra ”tiden, der fulgte!” min 80 års RWT-rejse, lige førend CORONA. Nu er jeg 81 år.

Min dejlige 48-årig søn, Christian, vil sætte tid til side for at ledsage på femte rejse. (Tromsø til Kirkenes & Pasvikdalen mod Rusland). Vores gamle fiskervenner fra første 2004 tur til Kerstin, dengang ung læge på Sørøya, er blevet adviseret om vores komme og dørene er gæstfrit åbne.

Christian var i mange år ”Captain” på Hideaway, vores dejlige Grinde, når han, Marie, Kerstin og skolekammerater sejlede fire ugers ture i Skærgårdene, sommer efter sommer. Han sætter nu tid af til mig!

En rig New York børsmægler planlagde engang en vandretur fra Alaska til Ildlandet i Syd med sine fire store børn. Depoter med alt muligt (både til at krydse floder etc.) blev lagt ud. Da de fem foer vild i Rockies Mountains valgte et familieråd, at storebror Steve ville være bedst til at føre gruppen ned?

De drog ud som 1 + 4, kom hjem til mor i NY som fem ”venner for Livet”.

Spejder Sport’s forårskatalog med to sider fra min hånd: ”Rejs bare, det skal nok gå!”, udkom 2 timer førend CORONA lukkede Danmark ned en lørdag i marts kl. 12.

Jeg vil efter 8 x 10 år fra fattigdom til Nu ikke med ind i FREMTIDEN. Havde allerede før 80 års rejsen dannet en mening om store, fremtidige Disruptions.

Nu har en sådan mening vokset sig anderledes og større. De fleste af Jordens 217? lande vil blive omstruktureret. Målene herfor må være, at så mange som muligt lever på et så højt niveau, som vel muligt.

Vores danske omstrukturering fra feudalisme til nu har taget 1.000 – 1500 år.

Amerikas dannelse 0 – 400 år

Brasiliens 0 – 200 år

”Kinas” 60 år ++

Mine efterkommere har og får travlt, men de er da også veluddannede og skolede.